Thursday, December 20, 2007

Ancient lie detector?

At the foot of the Aventine hills in an area close to the Tiber River is the tallest medieval bell tower in Rome. Constructed in the 6th century, the Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin was built atop the Forum Boarium, famous for being the site of the first gladiatorial contest in Rome in 264 BC.

Around 782 BC, Greek monks escaping persecution decorated the church and called it, “de Schola la Graeca.” Because of its incredible beauty, “Cosmedin” (from Greek kosmidion), was added to its name.

Nevertheless, what does this have to do with an ancient lie detector? In Rome, that ancient lie detector is called the “Bocca Della Verità,” or the “Mouth of Truth.” I set off in search for this “mouth” on a rainy mid-September morning. After wandering around nearby streets in the pouring rain, I sought shelter in a telephone booth and decided to finally check my “trusty tourist map.” Up until this point, I was looking for this mask to be located on the side of a building or in a park like a monument. This should explain the wandering around in the general area. My map failed to indicate that the “mouth” was located inside a building.

Across the street, I saw a tour bus full of noisy teenagers stop in front of Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, excitedly clutching their cameras and wondered what they were looking at.

Housed in a small, narrow portico to the left side of the church’s entrance resides the “Bocca Della Verità”, a man-like face with an open mouth depicting an image of the river god. The piece was placed in the portico
of the Santa Maria in Cosmedin in 1632. to give you an idea of the face, and its size, here are some facts I learned about it:

1. This stone medallion is about 5 feet 9 inches (1.75m) in diameter with a width of about 7 inches (19cm).

2. It weighs approximately 26,400 lbs (1200 Kg).

3. The material used is called “Pavonazzetto” marble quarried from Docimium in Frigia, which is now modern day Turkey.

4. The estimated age of the piece is about 2200 years old.

5. Trying to get a picture without 57 kids sticking their hands in the “mouth” was slightly easier than trying to perform open-heart surgery on myself. Fortunately, my best friend is taller than me and delicately moved people out of the way to take a photo. (See slideshow).

My first question was, “How does it stay attached to the portico’s wall?” followed by, “What a scary face” and “Who’s nightmare was this an image of?” I still do not know who the artist was. Some versions of its original purpose, pre-lie detector days are: part of a fountain, a manhole cover, or unusual art (just kidding on the third one). However, the most widely accepted version of its second career was its role as a lie detector.

According to popular belief, when taking an oath, Romans would place their right hand into the mouth of the face. If they perjured themselves, the mouth would close and their hand would be stuck for all to see. Other similar versions say a liar would loose his hands if he placed them in the mouth, or the mouth would bite off his hands.

A famous story…

It is said that the wife of a roman noble was accused of adultery. The wife denied the accusations, but her husband wanted to put her to the test by making place her hand inside the stone mouth. The wife knew she was lying, feared losing her hand, and decided to trick her husband. In front of a crowd that had gathered around the “Mouth of Truth,” she had a man, her actual lover, to run up to her and kiss her. She pretended she did not know who he was, and accused him of being a “madman”, and had the crowd chase him away.

When she put her hand into the mouth, the woman said she had never kissed any other man apart from her husband except for the “madman” who had just kissed her. This trick showed she had not lied and therefore her hand was saved. After that, the “Mouth of Truth” lost its credibility and since that day, it no longer carries out its function as a moral judge.

Monday, December 10, 2007

The beginning of a love affair…

Jetlag is a great equalizer. I often find myself out an about exploring my new environs during odd times of the day, also known as regular population going to work hours, and non tourist hours.

For example, one morning I woke up very early, sunrise early, decided to take a walk. It was my first visit to Rome and I wanted to take in the sights. The weather was perfect that morning, with a cool start and would later warm up to shorts and t-shirt weather. Looking at my map, I decided to head for the Coliseum. I figured, it was one of the most recognizable structures in the world, how could I make it to Rome and not see it. I got on the Red line of the Metro, sat down in a seat and headed for the Coliseum. Little did I know how rare it was to get a seat on the Metro, but as I mentioned before it was early and the Metro, well that is a whole other story. When I arrived at my stop, Colosseo, and exited, I knew that the Coliseum was nearby but I had no idea how close. I guess the name of the metro stop should have been a hint.

As I exited the Metro, there it was. Huge, gigantic, enormous, I cannot begin to describe it. Now, I was familiar with the Coliseum, the history behind it and what it looked like from watching specials on television and reading books but I was not prepared for the sheer enormity of the structure. WOW! It was at that moment that I knew I came to the right place. That this vacation was going to be amazing and I was going to learn a lot whether I wanted to or not. I was so astounded by the sheer size of it that I snapped a picture, looking like a goofy tourist, right next to the Metro’s exit. Now keep in mind, it was barely dawn and the only tourists outside besides me were…well, nobody, just me.

As I stood there for a few minutes, taking in the grandeur and visualizing how it once looked, according to the history channel, I wondered how many people over the centuries watched the sun rise over the Coliseum. I found a nice, low wall along the Piazza del Colosseo and decided to relax and people watch. I stayed there for about 45 minutes, planning my day. As walked over towards the Roman Forum, I realized that sometimes first impressions really do make lasting impressions. I have been there countless times over the years but I find that my favorite time of day to visit is in the early hours, before the throngs of tourists, charter busses, and groups. I realize that I too am a tourist but I feel like I belong there.

Friday, December 7, 2007

Welcome!

Why start a blog out of the clear blue?

Over the years, I have been fortunate enough to travel extensively both in the United States and internationally. Each time I return, friends and family always asked me similar questions about where I have been, what was my favorite place I visited and do I have pictures? After noticing a disinct pattern, I decided to get my act together and step into the 21st century by developing a blog that would show nice pictures with a little history about each and my experiences in each place.

I have attempted to keep a written journal, (yes, old fashioned) but for reasons unknown to me, I would write in it for a month, misplace it, etc... I hope you enjoy this blog as much as I enjoy creating it. If you have any comments or questions, feel free to drop in and leave a post. I don't claim to be an expert traveller but I have picked up some tricks along the way.

Thursday, December 6, 2007

UNDER CONSTRUCTION